Gede Ruins – Watamu Kenya
One of the seven world heritage sites in Kenya. If you are a history buff, like me, or you are just interested in the ways of Kenya gone by then this is a must for your Kenyan Bucket List.
Situated on the main Mombasa Malindi Road about 90km from Mombasa. It’s easy; just drive to the Watamu junction and follow the signs. I love all history, but I have a special place in my heart for Swahili culture and history, so Gede Ruins was a must for me!
We followed the dusty track through some small villages and ended up at the main gate. Once we had paid the entrance fee: Non-Resident 500/=, Resident 400/=, and Citizen 100/=. We entered the site for real. The guides are excellent at Gede and well worth the price of hiring one. Ours was bilingual which was an extra treat for our Italian friend.
The whole place is a little dated, but our guide showed us the new restaurant and museum they were hoping to build over the coming year or so.
The area is densely forested covering about 45 acres. Gede Ruins are what is left of a bustling town dating back to the twelfth century. That was some 300 years before the U.S. was rediscovered! The Swahili settlement must have been famous to all seafarers plying the East African Coast. Some 16 acres have so far been excavated showing a large and busy Muslim town.
The archaeologists working on the site have found many shards of pottery from Europe and some from China showing that this town was buying and selling with traders from as far away as the Silk Road.
There are numerous buildings scattered across the site and some impressive baobab trees with their roots and limbs now entwined in the history of this town. One of the main attractions is the Coral Tomb which has been dated to 1399. One can also see the walls and structures of the Great Mosque with internal rooms still visible. In front of the mosque is a 50m deep well, known as the Well of The Great Mosque. Very close by is the Octangular Pillar Tomb of the Iman or priest.
If you follow the paths, which are all over the place, you will find the 15th-century palace where the local king held court and addressed the men in one court, while the queen dealt with the women in another. There are small chambers and rooms which are believed to be old vaults for gold, jewels or other valuable trading items.
Gede survived until the 16th century although its demise started during the 1500s. It is believed an army from Mombasa was sent to fight with a fort in Malindi, but they came across Gede first. Another source states that the wells began to dry up and the place became unbearable so was deserted. Yet another story says that originally it was a coastal town right next to the ocean but for some reason the ocean receded leaving Gede high and dry. The truth is lost to history, but whatever happened Gede was abandoned in the early 1600s. The people, however, did not flee as there have been very few finds on the site suggesting it was just abandoned.
Gede Ruins is a great place to visit if you are on your way to Watamu Marine Park or one of the many hotels and guest houses along the strip. Water Sports is a great lunchtime venue but go early it gets packed.
Article by Steve Braker
Steve Braker, a UK native turned Mombasa resident, is an author whose writing is deeply influenced by his maritime passions and real-world experiences in both locations
